On top of the world

No country could have a finer symbol. Mt. Kenya, 5199m (17058 ft) high and a little over 100 km in diameter. Today the shape of the mountain belies the fact that it was ever a volcano at all. So beaten has it become through time and countless eruptions that there is little trace of any crater left. But it’s majestically battered peaks, draped by 11 glaciers, radiate an air of supreme elegance. From the plain, the peaks of Mt. Kenya seem to float like a distant fortress in the sky.

For those who suffer from vertigo and other neuroses, the passion for climbing is in explicable, but among the major delights must be the views. To stand at these heights and survey the clouds - wreathed panorama of fluted ice walls, glaciers, hanging ice-cliffs, sheer approaches, the dangers faced, the hazards overcome, must surely be triumph in deed. If not the highest, few mountains anywhere, if any, can challenge Mt. Kenya for its wealth of contrast. In its landscape of forests and moorlands, the richness of its flowers and plants, and the magnificence of the animals and birds that live in its forests and on its moorland.

The three highest peaks of Mt. Kenya are named after the maasai’s holy trinity of the 19th century. Batian the seer and prophet who united the fractious maasai clans and who predicted the coming of the Europeans and the railway line; Nelion his brother and Lenana, Batian’s son, the last supreme chief of the maasai. Three kilometres from these peaks stand Mt. Kenya’s 2 other major peaks, Tereri and Sendeyo, which are named after Lenana’s elder brothers. Mt. Kenya, perhaps the most striking mountain in Africa, attracts mountaineers from all the world. It is conquerable from 6 possible routes, 3 of these being quite popular among the mountaineers.

The Naromoru route, though wet and tiring seems to be the most popular because of its ease, excellent accommodation facilities and short trekking distances. The Sirimon route provides the same kind of facilities but is less scenic and requires a certain amount of fitness and positive mental attitude. The most scenic of them all is the Chogoria route. A fabulous route indeed. It takes one from the thick equatorial forests, savannah tussock grass plains, beautiful valleys and gorges right up to the snowline and dazzling glaciers. The price for all this is superior fitness. Accommodation is not up to date and nights have to be spent in the tents with sub-zero external temperatures and cold winds. Batian and Nelion are the top of the Kenyan world, standing at 5199 m and 5179 m respectively. These two peaks present the challenge of a rugged technical climb that demands rock-climbing experience, requires physical strength, and definitely calls for a presence of mind! So, for those who suffer vertigo, they stick to the Ngong Hills! Point Lenana, however, is the favourite haunt for the less qualified climber, or those out for a holiday with a difference. It is really only about 200 m lower than Batian, but the climb there is fundamentally just a walk…OK, it’s a long walk…but if you are there, you’re there with 3/4 days anyway!

Jokes aside, let’s give it its due: Mountain trekking or climbing is serious business. It’s a sport you are supposed to enjoy, but not at the expense of safety or health. there’s a saying we have amongst ourselves: ” Don’t mess around, respect the Mountain. When there, you are the vulnerable one.” This only goes to say that the basic precautions of health and safety measures should never be taken lightly. First aid kits, sufficient and appropriate clothing and footwear, the right food, drinking water, and hey…you’re down the right track already. Don’t forget the guide…especially if you’re new there or if you have a sense of direction like mine! Getting lost on that mountain is just not on. Keep that in mind and you’ll be just fine. OK, formalities over, now let’s get down to the real thing….. The Naromoru route though often wet and tiring, seems to be the most popular because of its convenient accommodation facilities which are located favourably, and the short trekking distances between these points. The typical trek on this route begins at the National Park Gate (yes, it has been granted that status)where vehicles can parked for a small fee per day. It’s a 2 - 3 hour walk up to Met Station, (actually a meteorological station) the first stop-over/camping point which is at 10,000 feet. In good weather conditions, the road is passable, and one can drive up, but really, it would be a shame to miss out on the beautiful forest surroundings. Besides, it’s a good acclimatisation tactic to walk it. There are bandas available for accommodation (advance booking is advised), or there is always that good ol’ camping site! The next morning brings a 17 Km hike uphill, which leads to The Mackinder’s Camp. ‘The Vertical Bog,’ as it is commonly known is the most notorious feature of terrain in this area. It’s a steep climb and true to its nature, very mushy when wet. Once you’re past that bit, get your breath back and settle in to a very picturesque landscape and enjoy yourself. Mackinder’s is one of the most fantastic points on the range. The view of the peaks is mesmerising, and they are so amazingly close. Here too, bandas can be booked for overnight stays, or one can camp. It is from here that the last leg begins - the climb to Point Lenana. This can be done as ‘A Dawn Attack’ which starts as early as 2.00 am and gets you to the top by sunrise, or ‘A Day Attack’ during which you climb during the day. It’s a matter of choice and preference. Walking up, once you’re at the Austrian Hut, know that it’s only another 45 min. to an hour before your final triumph. Remember to get your snaps by the cross up there, hey…c’mon…feel like a hero, you deserve it! The Sirimon route provides similar facilities but is less scenic. The route starts from the park gate once again. The first day trek is quite short (about 9 Kms), and leads to the Old Moses camp site. Presence of a shelter and bunkbeds is very smoothening. The next day leads to Shiptons camp ( 17 Kms). This walk comprises a gruesome walk through the Mackinder valley. The scenery is not breathtaking except for the Shiptons caves and the view of all the peaks at Shiptons camp. The ‘Dawn Attack’ is probably the shortest of them all since point Lenana can be reached within 3-4 hours.

Saving the best for the last; the most scenic of them all is the Chogoria route. A fabulous route indeed. It takes 4 days and takes one from the thick equatorial forests, beautiful valleys and gorges right up to the snowline and dazzling glaciers. The price for all this is superior fitness and endurance. Accommodation facilities are very basic and tents are the only option in most places along this one. Watch out for sub-zero external temperatures and cold winds. It is usual to begin the hike from the Meru Mt. Kenya Bandas which is the station of the Park gate. But if one has the time and the extra energy, the trek can begin from a point lower than that which would add on an extra 22 Kms to the walk and need a one-night stop at the gate. The route can then begin at two points according to time available and preferences. One can either carry on straight and walk further to the Mintos Hut, or drop down into the valley and camp by Lake Michealson. Now, this tarn is hauntingly beautiful, it’s almost ethereal in quality. (You’ve got to see it to believe it!) Mintos Hut’s accommodation is meagre, but it is situated close to ‘The Temple.’ On this site, you will find yourself atop a very high and a very vertical cliff-face that grants you a sweeping view of the Gorges Valley; you could almost touch the sky. Both these places serve as base-points to Point Lenana. The other possibility worth mentioning is the ‘Around the Peaks Trek.’ This is a hike that is routed to cover the circumference of the three main peaks. The actual course is variable, because it is possible to start at different places, but one thing is for sure: it is THE most impressive endeavour that can be undertaken on the mountain. The challenge to one’s stamina and endurance is mighty, but the reward is one breath-taking sight after another, it is unlikely that another terrain can match this mountain in it’s sheer magnificence and its wealth of contrast. Triumph indeed it is to stand at these heights, a feat that stems from the want of adventure and is realised from the want of achievement. And this is not poetry, it’s better than that!